Originally published February 15, 2007
NOMI: Restaurant brings worldly flair to Northville
BY WENSDY VON BUSKIRK
STAFF WRITER
There's no denying the menu at NOMI was created in a blaze of inspiration.
Executive chef Jason Jones was given two weeks and complete freedom to come up with dishes for the new Northville restaurant. He got right to work.
"They gave me an open opportunity to do whatever I wanted," Jones said. "Usually I'm just asked to tweak or add a couple things, but this time it was a clean slate, and that's the hardest thing. I took out all my reference materials, every recipe I ever made, every special. I pulled my hair out and did a lot of pacing."
Jones poured over cookbooks by favorite chefs like Jacques Pepin, Wolfgang Puck and Bobby Flay. His family steered clear as he turned the kitchen into a lab, experimenting with ingredients and testing new dishes. When the flour settled, his office and fridge were covered with notes on yellow Post-Its, and his baby was born.
NOMI's menu begins with starters like Warm Baby Brie, Fried Green Tomatoes, Chicken Shumai Spring Rolls and Three Pepper Beef Carpaccio -- and ends with desserts like Chocolate Soup, Peach Tart and Creme Brulee.
In between is an array of "small plates" for lunch and dinner that are actually quite sizable portions. Selections include Chianti Braised Lamb Shank, Chili and Lime Prawns, Chicken Fusili and Georgia Peach Salmon. The Warm Steak Salad and Szechuan Tuna are undeniable favorites.
Restaurant manager Connie Gurss said Jones, who was educated at Schoolcraft College's culinary arts department, also concocts made-to-order dishes based on customer's cravings.
"We can do all kinds of concierge and VIP services. The chef can come right to your table, get to know you, find out what you're in the mood for and go back in the kitchen and make it happen," Gurss said.
NOMI's menu is printed out frequently and served on a clipboard so it's easy to change if "something amazing is in season," Gurss said.
Owners Al Irish and Rachel Stern visited restaurants around the world to bring back ideas for NOMI. Irish spent 10 years as a professional fighter, and owned a successful gym in West Bloomfield. He always dreamed of opening a restaurant in his own hometown -- in fact NOMI stands for Northville, Mich. -- but he didn't want the atmosphere to have a small-town feel.
It definitely doesn't.
Enter NOMI and you are greeted with worldly, sophisticated design. The walls are painted a rich orange, and ornate black chandeliers hang over booths separated by sheer curtains. Huge windows look onto Main Street, where an outdoor patio awaits warmer weather. At center stage is a huge island bar surrounded by chairs on all four sides. Its marblesque surface is lit from beneath, and above, flat-screen televisions carry hot games or breaking news.
Adding to NOMI's cosmopolitan feel is mixologist Rico Miller.
The recent London expatriate tosses liquor bottles and layers drinks with theatrical flair, mixing hand-muddled fruit martinis and creative champagne infusions.
Yet even more important than NOMI's delicious food and drink, Irish said, is its service.
"I think that's what is missing today -- service, meaning whatever you need, whether it's theatre tickets, flowers, limos, a private jet -- we're going to get it for you," Irish said.
For the ultimate NOMI experience, guests can pay for bottle service at a VIP booth, complete with a host who spends the entire evening serving their every whim.
But don't think NOMI is stuffy. As much as it's equipped for high rollers in evening attire, neighbors are welcome to stop by in jeans. And children are more than welcome.
In fact, Jones created a special menu just for kids. The simple selection of griddle pb & j, chicken fingers and tomato pasta came much more easily than the adult fare.
"I just sat down with my son Cameron and asked him to tell me his five favorite things," Jones said.
wvonb@hometownlife.com (248) 953-2019
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