Clean Plate Club (January 10, 2007)
By Travis R. Wright | photo by Travis R. Wright
Jan 10, 2007, 09:00

Nomi
Northville Nouveau

Just weeks old, residing slightly outside of the cluster of quaint businesses, shops and theatres that make up downtown Northville is Nomi, a new restaurant and martini bar proudly standing as the hippest spot on the strip — and for all the right reasons.

The saffron-colored cloth and dark wood make Nomi comfortable without sacrificing its contemporary “edge.” Also in the fantastic, yet somewhat understated, mix of décor are the black chandeliers that hang above the large, cozy, half-moon booths. These chandeliers avoid the pretension often associated with the artistic lighting apparatus and instead add just a touch of “high brow” to the otherwise smooth, romantic, low-key atmosphere.

Stylistic aesthetics aside, Nomi also offers some incredibly fresh dining experiences. Before we begin to explicate the experiences CPC had the pleasure of undertaking, we must first mention that General Manager Klint Kirshman has put together a comprehensive staff, including internationally renowned bar manager and mixologist extraordinaire Rico Miller. When it comes to creating the perfect beverage “it’s all about balance,” said Miller, who spends hours mixing ingredients before he is content to name and serve a drink. “If I choose to go heavy on fresh lime or some sort of sour, then I must also go heavy on brown sugar or some other sweetener to balance it all out.”

Executive Chef Jason Jones has really thought out his menu, offering a range of starters, salads and tapas-like plates for any palate — Asian, Italian and American entrées are available and masterfully created, as well as beautifully presented. We started off with an incredibly fresh Mediterranean platter which featured hummus (homemade, of course), artichoke pesto, marinated mozzarella and olives ready to be placed on flat bread to make for the perfect appetizer.

The Nomi salad was equally delightful, both to the eye and taste buds. Duck confit, caramelized apples, Maytag bleu cheese, mixed greens and black walnuts are all topped with slightly peppered orange vinaigrette make up this perfectly dressed salad.

Next came a Trio of Seafood Tar Tar, an intelligent take on the infamous preparation. Cured salmon, Ahi tuna and yellowtail make up this terrific grouping. This dish is as exotic as it is mature and features an aptly beautiful arrangement.

Of the many and various small plates Nomi offers, the one that caught our eye was the Szechuan Tuna — it was impeccable by all accounts, served rare and accompanied with a beautiful mix of roasted Asian vegetables, a moist mound of ginger hazelnut rice, all under a dripping of Japanese ponzu sauce was our favorite dish of the day. The mix of texture leaning on the delightful crust of the tuna brought out the taste of the fish and accented the lemon and soy ponzu.

'Tis true that all good things must come to an end and we like it when those things come to an equally good end or, at least, a sweet one. The oven roasted peach tart complete with ricotta cheese crème fraiche along with the help of the traditional strawberry shortcake with fluffy lemon pound cake, cured strawberries and vanilla bean pound cake made this sentiment a reality and certified Nomi's membership into the Clean Plate Club. | RDW

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